Here in California, we tend to think about global warming a lot. But one thing I hadn't thought of: how will it affect California wines? And when?
According to this article on National Public Radio today, the change is already happening, especially in that hot bed of California wine innovation, UC Davis. Even a very small change in temperature could decrease the size of our wine growing region dramatically, at least based on the mostly French varietals that are king in California. Wine growers will need to adapt within the next half century if they are going to continue producing.
So, the choice seems to be: Should we breed more heat resistant varieties of grapes uniquely suited for California? Or, should we look beyond the big-name French varietals to explore lesser-known grapes from the hot regions of Spain and southern Italy?
In either case, the biggest problem for wine growers and vintners is the consumer. We've been trained to look for pinot noir, chardonnay, and cabernet sauvignon. I don't think they tasted any negroamaro or babera in Sideways. They're not at the top of the list in California Wine for Dummies. And newbies and wine snobs alike might be hesitant to invest in entirely new varieties of wine bred just for California.
But think back a couple of decades. Just like no one knew a macchiato from a cappuccino before the early 1990s, not many people could tell the difference between a pinot grigio and a sauvignon blanc before the late 1970s. But little by little, person by person, tasting room by gourmet boutique -- now we do.
Building up new vine plantings takes time and money, and shaping public opinion about wine could take even more. But it sounds like we have a few decades to turn this ship. I don't know about you, but I am excited to keep exploring new wineries and learning about new varieties. I haven't tasted a negroamaro yet, but I look forward to getting the chance sometime soon. Perhaps some innovative agriculture and delicious new wines will be a bright spot among the challenges of climate change.
